ETRO Men's Collection Fall 07-08

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Two men - the Gentle Man and the Busy Man – meet on our runway. They represent the two personalities that live within us, but not mutually exclusive. Both find themselves before a meter that measures reality and us. The Busy Man, the man on the go, prefers the rigid ruler for measuring distances. The Gentle Man, a more sensitive dreamer, uses a measuring tape that more easily adapts to the curves of life. But which of the two can say he has the right tool for measuring in an impartial way? And what is the standard and universally recognized unit of measurement?
In the classic debate between productivity and thought, a third path unites the sensibilities of the Gentle Man and the Busy Man. It does not suggest the correct way to measure reality, but focuses on crossing it. The mEtro ruler of thought combines action and contemplation, work and leisure. It knows no schemes and classifications and accepts life as it is in the here and now. “The journey is the destination.” To this theme we dedicate the story of the asciutto (slim style) and polenta (rural memories). The collection is the synthesis and harmonization of two important principles that coexist: the revival of artisanal memory (symbolized almost graphically by polenta yellow) and the need to formalize the principle of fine tailoring. Asciutto and Polenta – “Polenta” is the cultural reference that evokes the memory and traces of the past that infiltrate the fabrics in the collection. More durable felted fabrics representing union and fusion, the shibori dye technique with its watercolors and abstract motifs, and stencils are combined with corduroy, flannel, and cloth. Never before has the Maison blended such different techniques through its aesthetic mEtro meter. It combines “polenta” with asciutto; a metaphor of the slim fit that is the dominant silhouette of the collection. Pants snugly caress the legs, outerwear is fitted, and knitwear embraces the body. Brave and Hard – There are two different slim fit styles. The focus is on jacket construction. Rules of fine tailoring are applied to pret-à-porter. The Brave jacket flatters the figure, hugs the hips, slims the sleeves, and focuses on the waist. The Hard jacket concentrates on construction: like a second shirt, it accentuates the figure. The knit-effect shirt – Materials are digitally transformed. Patterned knitwear stripes are printed on cotton for shirts, on silk for new regimental ties, and on nylon for sportswear. This migration of elements and culture is the leitmotif of the entire collection and also involves evening shirts, where rough raw gauze creates delicate origami elements worn like new jabots. Paisley – Paisley, a memento of the past, defines this collection of the present: it outlines pocket edges, lines lapels, and decorates classic laced shoes.  The paisley travel bag is what the Gentle Man and the Busy Man find in their wardrobe from days gone by. The light – Light is the new measure that combines activity and contemplation, work and leisure. It is found in the colored crystals used for cufflinks, in 28 different types of jewel buttons for shirts with forties-style prints, and in the sparkling sheen of animal print cockades decorating working class caps. Light gleams in the suits of both the Gentle Man and Busy Man, day and night, in the colored motifs of the printed silk linings.